It matches quite beautifully.
Here it is before the paint and stain. See this Post
And here's a sneak peek at what we are working on now. Any guesses?
To see the beginning of this project go here. The plans were based on Ana's at Knock Off Wood.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Dining Bench Completed!
Here is how I finished it!
It matches quite beautifully.
Here it is before the paint and stain. See this Post
And here's a sneak peek at what we are working on now. Any guesses?
To see the beginning of this project go here. The plans were based on Ana's at Knock Off Wood.
It matches quite beautifully.Here it is before the paint and stain. See this Post And here's a sneak peek at what we are working on now. Any guesses?
To see the beginning of this project go here. The plans were based on Ana's at Knock Off Wood.
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Big Reveal!!
Can you guess what we built today?
It's our new dining room bench! We got the plans from Ana at Knock Off Wood. Except her plans were for a 54 in bench so we modified it and made a 6 footer.
Now I just have to figure out how I want to finish it! I would love suggestions.
This is what my dining room looks like (well a few months ago actually). Now I need to tie in my rustic country bench and shabby chic dresser. 
Did I mention I found this table and chairs for $50 on Craigslist! See this post on my dining room.
And instead of the armoire I now have this blue buffet/dresser- see here. I am actually going to redo this look on another longer dresser I found recently. Ahh shoot me.
But I think it will be good, because this time I think I will leave the top brown to tie into the table better and darken up the blue a bit.
I love all the colors in this fabric.
No I am not afraid of color- but don't want to over do it.
Should the top of the bench be stained dark brown with the bottom painted blue/turquoise to match the dresser?
Should it all be stained to match the table?
Should I paint the chairs and bench a distressed black? Maybe with a little blue peeking though?
Should I refinish all my pieces?
Oh the possibilities! What would you do?
It's our new dining room bench! We got the plans from Ana at Knock Off Wood. Except her plans were for a 54 in bench so we modified it and made a 6 footer.
Now I just have to figure out how I want to finish it! I would love suggestions.
This is what my dining room looks like (well a few months ago actually). Now I need to tie in my rustic country bench and shabby chic dresser. Did I mention I found this table and chairs for $50 on Craigslist! See this post on my dining room.And instead of the armoire I now have this blue buffet/dresser- see here. I am actually going to redo this look on another longer dresser I found recently. Ahh shoot me.
But I think it will be good, because this time I think I will leave the top brown to tie into the table better and darken up the blue a bit.
I love all the colors in this fabric.No I am not afraid of color- but don't want to over do it.Should the top of the bench be stained dark brown with the bottom painted blue/turquoise to match the dresser?
Should it all be stained to match the table?
Should I paint the chairs and bench a distressed black? Maybe with a little blue peeking though?
Should I refinish all my pieces?
Oh the possibilities! What would you do?
Friday, June 11, 2010
A Table That Will Last
I finally refinished my kitchen table! What I thought would take a Memorial day weekend ended up taking a week. Mostly because I took extra care to make sure it would be durable. It was worth it though cuz it is beautiful and I am so happy with it now!
Here is my table before. Not too bad and pretty flowers but too much brown for me.
And with 7 good years this is what it looked like close up. Eww!
This is my kitchen and I thought a cream color table would stand out from the floor and the brown leather couches on the other side and brown drapes on the other side. The cream would also tie into the island bead board, bar stools and ceramic accents.
Creamy goodness close ups.
As you can see I sanded and lightly glazed for the antique look. And with this high traffic table the antiquing will hide any nicks and scrapes the kiddies might make.
Here are the steps I took to make sure this table will stand the test of time.
1. Sand off the polyurethane (shiny finish). The primer will stick better. You can also use a deglosser product.
After I sanded I rolled on 2 coats of Kilz primer (brushed the bottom).
After the primer rolled on 2 coats of Creamy Cottage by Behr.
Then I sanded the edges with my power sander.
Next is glaze. I like Ralph Lauren glaze. It is thicker than most which is better for furniture. Most are thinner which is better for walls. But sadly Home Depot is clearing it out and replacing it with a Martha Stewart line.
Before
During- I wipe on with a brush and wipe off with a damp rag.
After- gets in the grooves for antique beauty. Allow to dry completely.
Then I polyed 3 coats for an extra tough protective finish. Brush on and wait 2 hours between each coat and 24 hours to fully dry after that. For a cream or white table you have to use water based poly. Which is called polycrylic because regular polyurethane will yellow over time.
Now I have to do all that all over again for my chairs. Wish me luck! After that I hope to tackle the kiddie table and chairs and make them different fun colors.
UPDATE:
I used a flat finish paint. This way the glaze and poly adhere better to it. Because the paint is a flat finish I didn't see the need to sand between coats like some do.
The glaze I used was Lowe's asphaultum antiquing glaze. I only recommend using this if you are putting a poly over it. It is thinner and doesn't seem to dry 100%.
If you use Ralph Lauren Glaze, the Home Depot guys can tint it for you. But warning it is being discontinued! You choose the color tint you want. I prefer a brown tint.
Here is my table before. Not too bad and pretty flowers but too much brown for me.
And with 7 good years this is what it looked like close up. Eww!
This is my kitchen and I thought a cream color table would stand out from the floor and the brown leather couches on the other side and brown drapes on the other side. The cream would also tie into the island bead board, bar stools and ceramic accents.
Creamy goodness close ups.
As you can see I sanded and lightly glazed for the antique look. And with this high traffic table the antiquing will hide any nicks and scrapes the kiddies might make.
Here are the steps I took to make sure this table will stand the test of time.1. Sand off the polyurethane (shiny finish). The primer will stick better. You can also use a deglosser product.
After I sanded I rolled on 2 coats of Kilz primer (brushed the bottom).After the primer rolled on 2 coats of Creamy Cottage by Behr.
Then I sanded the edges with my power sander.
Next is glaze. I like Ralph Lauren glaze. It is thicker than most which is better for furniture. Most are thinner which is better for walls. But sadly Home Depot is clearing it out and replacing it with a Martha Stewart line.Before
During- I wipe on with a brush and wipe off with a damp rag.
After- gets in the grooves for antique beauty. Allow to dry completely.
Then I polyed 3 coats for an extra tough protective finish. Brush on and wait 2 hours between each coat and 24 hours to fully dry after that. For a cream or white table you have to use water based poly. Which is called polycrylic because regular polyurethane will yellow over time.Now I have to do all that all over again for my chairs. Wish me luck! After that I hope to tackle the kiddie table and chairs and make them different fun colors.
UPDATE:
I used a flat finish paint. This way the glaze and poly adhere better to it. Because the paint is a flat finish I didn't see the need to sand between coats like some do.
The glaze I used was Lowe's asphaultum antiquing glaze. I only recommend using this if you are putting a poly over it. It is thinner and doesn't seem to dry 100%.
If you use Ralph Lauren Glaze, the Home Depot guys can tint it for you. But warning it is being discontinued! You choose the color tint you want. I prefer a brown tint.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Splurge- Crewel Pillows
Ok I admit..... I splurged (in my standards).
It was so worth it though. I found these crewel embroidered pillows at Marshalls the other day and they were just too perfect to pass up. $20 a pillow isn't that bad considering it adds so much visual interest, great texture, adds beautiful colors and ties the pops of color in my kitchen into my family room. Totally worth it.
I have had my eyes on these for about 9 months. I first saw them in pottery barn and didn't know this type of embroidery was called crewel.
I also saw this at Pier One, but I wasn't about to spend $30-$40 on either of these. At one point I went to a specialty fabric store and found the crewel fabric I loved was over $100 a yard! What the?! 
Anyways mine are perfect for our home and I am loving them.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
DIY Roman Shades
If you love hot glue, saving money, and sleeping in you will love this post! Here is how you make some black out roman shades using your regular $4 mini blinds! Lots of pictures and very easy steps- sew, disassemble, measure, glue, hang!
Let me also say that these are great because they function as an attractive window treatment as well as a privacy blind!
1. Buy black out liner and top fabric. Liner always on sale for about $2.50 a yard at your favorite fabric store. You will want about 1/4 inch wider than blind size, and actual length of your window.
And for your top fabric of choice about 2 inches wider on all sides.
FYI when buying blinds they always run a half inch shorter than size stated on package.
2. Cut the liner about 1/4 inch wider than the actual size of the blinds. Then lay the top fabric under the liner. Fold top fabric over twice so no raw edge is showing and press, pin, and sew- so it looks like this, but better. It's easy I promise :) I have also seen no sew ones where the ladies fold and glue directly over the back of the blind.
OK you will have a nice sewn rectangle that should measure slightly smaller than the inside of your window, and slightly larger than your mini blinds. If you want to get fancy like I tried, you could make a smaller rectangle and sew it to the top- for a more finished look.
OK all sewing complete!
3. Fun part! Start with your regular mini blind and disassemble as follows. Pop off the caps on the bottom of blinds using screwdriver.
Locate the ladder cords that separate all the blinds vertically.My blind had 3 ladder cords and 2 main cords on the sides. DO NOT CUT the Main Cords. So cut and remove all ladder cords. See picture.
4. Next remove most of your mini blinds off the remaining 2 cords. You didn't cut those right ? ;) This is what it should look like.
5. Measure how many separations/folds you want and space your mini blinds evenly. Remember that this measurement will be divided in half visually -because when the blinds are pulled the separations will be folded in half.
6. Glue 2 blinds on top of each other for more stability and weight. Be careful the glue can burn you through the blinds. :(
7. Glue blinds to your measurements on your fabric. Do not glue the cords or the openings down. Because we are using blackout liner the hot glue doesn't show through. If you use a different liner I suggest a strong fabric glue.
8. Making sure the cords are fully extended tie a knot at the bottom and cut off excess. You can choose to make your last fold before the bottom, so it had a "skirt", or go completely to the bottom and it will fold.
9. Next cut a hole for your pull strings, make sure it is wide enough.
(I had to cut mine a bit wider than this) No the raw edge doesn't bother me-but you could sew a button hole here instead- I'm just too lazy. :)
This is what you have, beautiful!
Even though I didn't(please learn form me) I suggest gluing some blinds at the bottom for added weight so they go down easier.
10. To hang them you will have to pull back the glued fabric on the top for them to fit in the brackets.
Enjoy sleeping in with your new black out roman shades! Really they are easy to do once you get going.
Let me also say that these are great because they function as an attractive window treatment as well as a privacy blind!
1. Buy black out liner and top fabric. Liner always on sale for about $2.50 a yard at your favorite fabric store. You will want about 1/4 inch wider than blind size, and actual length of your window.And for your top fabric of choice about 2 inches wider on all sides.
FYI when buying blinds they always run a half inch shorter than size stated on package.
2. Cut the liner about 1/4 inch wider than the actual size of the blinds. Then lay the top fabric under the liner. Fold top fabric over twice so no raw edge is showing and press, pin, and sew- so it looks like this, but better. It's easy I promise :) I have also seen no sew ones where the ladies fold and glue directly over the back of the blind.
OK you will have a nice sewn rectangle that should measure slightly smaller than the inside of your window, and slightly larger than your mini blinds. If you want to get fancy like I tried, you could make a smaller rectangle and sew it to the top- for a more finished look.
OK all sewing complete!
3. Fun part! Start with your regular mini blind and disassemble as follows. Pop off the caps on the bottom of blinds using screwdriver.
Locate the ladder cords that separate all the blinds vertically.My blind had 3 ladder cords and 2 main cords on the sides. DO NOT CUT the Main Cords. So cut and remove all ladder cords. See picture.
4. Next remove most of your mini blinds off the remaining 2 cords. You didn't cut those right ? ;) This is what it should look like.
5. Measure how many separations/folds you want and space your mini blinds evenly. Remember that this measurement will be divided in half visually -because when the blinds are pulled the separations will be folded in half.
6. Glue 2 blinds on top of each other for more stability and weight. Be careful the glue can burn you through the blinds. :(
7. Glue blinds to your measurements on your fabric. Do not glue the cords or the openings down. Because we are using blackout liner the hot glue doesn't show through. If you use a different liner I suggest a strong fabric glue.
8. Making sure the cords are fully extended tie a knot at the bottom and cut off excess. You can choose to make your last fold before the bottom, so it had a "skirt", or go completely to the bottom and it will fold.
9. Next cut a hole for your pull strings, make sure it is wide enough.
(I had to cut mine a bit wider than this) No the raw edge doesn't bother me-but you could sew a button hole here instead- I'm just too lazy. :)
This is what you have, beautiful!
Even though I didn't(please learn form me) I suggest gluing some blinds at the bottom for added weight so they go down easier.
10. To hang them you will have to pull back the glued fabric on the top for them to fit in the brackets.Enjoy sleeping in with your new black out roman shades! Really they are easy to do once you get going.
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